Winters in Toronto are very difficult. Deep freezes, bad windchill, and lake-effect precipitation mean that freeze-thaw cycles are always happening. Door materials expand and contract; seals become stiff; finishes degrade from salty slush.
A good unit of slab and frame will maintain the heat inside, the drafts outside, and allow the door to operate without incident in minus 20 degrees while you juggle your groceries. Indeed, proper materials and solid, professional installation are necessary to maintain the thermal envelope of the home.
Choosing the right materials is not just a financial investment, but one that will have tangible value in comfort and energy efficiency. So, a custom door should be your friend.
KEY TAKEAWAYS
- Fiberglass is the best all-around performer for harsh winters due to its excellent stability.
- Steel is the most budget-friendly and secure option.
- Multipoint locks are a must-have for all door types, as they create a tighter seal and prevent drafts.
At-a-Glance: Fiberglass vs Wood vs Steel
This categorized table will help you determine the features of fibreglass, wood, and steel. Take look at them below:
| Fiberglass | Wood | Steel | |
| Insulation (thermal) | High (foam core + skins) | Medium (varies by species/engineered build) | High (foam core; watch thermal bridging) |
| Draft Resistance | Excellent with quality weatherstripping | Good if perfectly finished & maintained | Good; gasket performance is key |
| Cold-Weather Stability | Excellent (minimal warp/swell) | Variable (expansion/contraction risk) | Good (no swell; panel can feel “cold”) |
| Dent/Warp/Rust Risk | Won’t warp; can scuff | Warp/swell if finish neglected | Dent risk; rust if coating compromised |
| Maintenance | Low | High (regular sealing/varnish) | Low–Medium (touch up chips) |
| Design Flexibility | Very high (textures, glass, colors) | Highest (true wood grains, custom carving) | Moderate (clean, simple profiles) |
| Security Hardware | Great with multipoint locks | Great with reinforced cores | Great with multipoint locks |
| Cost Tier | $$–$$$ | $$$ | $–$$ |
| Lifespan | 25–30+ years | 20–30+ with care | 20–25+ years |
| Warranty (typical) | Strong on structure/finish | Good but finish-dependent | Good on structure/paint |
| One-Line Verdict | Best all-rounder for harsh winters and low upkeep. | Unmatched character; needs diligent care. | Strong value and secure; protect against dents/rust. |
Fiberglass Doors
Fiberglass has FRP skins on top of a foam core. It holds heat efficiently. It does not swell or shrink like wood. So seals stay fixed in the freezing–thaw. You’ll see fewer sticky latches and some drafts in January.
Condensation is less on the panel. Most moisture risks transferring to the glass. You can expect streamlined operation even at -20 °C with a windchill.
- Strong insulation vs. wood or thin-skin steel.
Stays flat, hence no warping.
Low maintenance, as slush doesn’t scare it.
Looks flexible. Can mimic real wood or go modern.
Works great with multipoint locks.
- Cheap models can feel hollow.
Dark colors in full sun require high-grade finishes.
My suggestion: In case you want the best all-round winter performer with minimal upkeep, go fiberglass.
What to Specify
- Slab thickness: 1¾” or 2¼” with high-R foam core
- Frames: Composite or rot-proof jambs; thermally broken sills
- Seals: premium bulb gaskets + adjustable sweep; continuous sill pan
- Hardware: multipoint lock set; insulated, reinforced strike plates
- Glass: warm-edge, low-E spacer IGUs (double or triple) for lites/sidelites
- Finish: factory-cured paint/stain rated for dark colors if high sun exposure
Wood Doors
Wood moves, due to the old-dry air shrinks. Moisture swells it, which can loosen seals. Latches may stick. Engineered wood cores mitigate movement. Solid slabs move more when insulation is moderate. Foam-core fiberglass generally insulates better.
Simple data point: A typical solid wood slab is ~R-2 to R-3. A good insulated fiberglass slab is usually ~R-5 to R-6. That’s a clear gap.
- Premium appearance and feel.
Can match heritage styles perfectly.
Easy to refinish or repair.
- Highest upkeep. Needs sealing on all six sides.
Can warp or cup if finish fails.
Insulates less than insulated fiberglass/steel.
My suggestion: Fond of the natural look? Pick an engineered/stave-core door. Add a perfect overhang. Consider a storm door on wind-facing façades.
What to specify (so it behaves)
- Build: Engineered/stave-core, not solid-slab.
- Species: Stable hardwoods (e.g., mahogany, white oak).
- Finish: Factory-cured. Seal all edges and cutouts.
- Frame: Rot-resistant jambs; thermally broken sill.
- Seals: Quality weatherstripping; adjustable sweep.
- Glass: Low-E IGU with warm-edge spacers.
Steel Doors
Over a foam core, Steel skins insulate well. But metal feels cold to the touch. Thermal filling can chill the surface. Seals matter a lot. Good gaskets hold drafts down. Pick thicker skins: they resist dings from daily use.
Simple data point: 24-gauge steel is around one-third thicker than 26-gauge. Thicker skin = better dent resistance.
- Good insulation with foam core.
Secure with multipoint locks.
Budget-friendly. Low routine upkeep.
- Can dent.
If paint chips and stays bare, rust can start.
Fewer deep-profile designs than wood or fiberglass.
My suggestion: For rentals, back/side entries, or tight budgets, go steel. Specify 24-gauge or galvanized skins, thicker, and factory paint.
What to specify
- Gauge: 24-ga (or 22-ga premium) galvanized skins.
- Core: High-density polyurethane.
- Frame/Sill: Composite jamb; thermally broken threshold.
- Seals: Quality gaskets; adjustable sweep; sill pan.
- Hardware: Multipoint lock; reinforced strike.
- Finish: Factory paint; keep touch-up kit handy.
Beyond the Slab: Frames, Sills & Glass
Most drafts are sourced from the frame and sill. Fix those, and any door feels warmer.
Frames
Utilize composite or rot-proof jambs. They do not wick moisture, and hold screws well. Add long screws into framing at hinges and strike. That keeps the slab fixed under wind load.
My suggestion: Upgrade the frame and gaskets, if you upgrade only one thing.
Sills and seals
Select a thermally broken threshold. Set a consistent sill pan to stop hidden leaks. Use bulb gaskets that stay flexible in the cold. Install the sweep to kiss the threshold, not drag.
Simple data point: A well-sealed frame can stop air leakage more than swapping materials on the slab alone. Installation quality often drives 50%+ of comfort gains.
Glass (lites, sidelites, transoms)
Choose IGUs (insulated glass units). Double is fine and triple is warmer. Ask for warm-edge spacers to minimize edge chill. Use Low-E coatings tuned for our cold climate. Seal transitions between lite frames, door, and jamb with tapes/foams.
Energy & Ratings
Toronto winters are unforgettable. Labels help you choose a door that stays warm and tight. Look for low U-factor and low air leakage. Inspect the glass ratings too. Compare whole-unit numbers (door + frame + glass), not slab-only claims. Same size with lite layout. Apples to apples.
Quick take: Go through the label. Lower U-factor. Lower air leakage. Right Low-E.
What to look for
- U-factor: Lower = warmer. Insulated fiberglass/steel doors often beat wood.
- Air leakage: Lower is better. Tight gaskets matter more than you think.
- SHGC (for glass): Moderate–low for winter comfort and glare control.
- ENERGY STAR (Canada): Simple signal. Pick certified models for GTA.
- NAFS/CSA ratings: Confirms pressure, water, and air performance.
Simple data point: A good insulated slab can be ~R-5–R-6. Solid wood is generally ~R-2–R-3. That’s ~2× the resistance.
My suggestion: If you add glass, go for Low-E IGUs with warm-edge spacers. You’ll cut edge chill and condensation.
Security & Winter Reliability
Cold stiffens gaskets. Air flow tugs at the latch side. Metal parts get sticky. The fix is more suitable compression and better anchoring. Multipoint locks pull the panel tight. Composite frames and long screws keep alignment. A tiny lube and a quick sweep adjustment prevent winter jams.
Quick take: Lock it tight. Keep it moving in the cold.
Hardware that helps
- Multipoint lock: Pulls the door tight at 3–5 points. Fewer drafts. More security.
- Reinforced strike: Long screws into framing. No wobbly latches.
- Hinges: Security pins. Long screws. Keep the slab aligned in wind.
- Deadbolt: 1″ throw. Solid latch engagement.
Cold-friendly details
- Gaskets: Choose materials that stay flexible below freezing.
- Lubricants: Use silicone or PTFE on latches. No thick oils in winter.
- Sweep + threshold: Firm contact. Not dragging. Easy to adjust seasonally.
My suggestion: Ask for a factory-prepped multiple points and a composite frame. You will feel the seal snap tight every close.
Cost & ROI
Price is the only component of the story. Comfort, upkeep, and curb appeal pay you back. A tight install can save more heat than a premium slab alone. In Toronto, a sharp entry also helps resale. Consider 10-year cost, not day-one price.
Quick take: Budget, comfort, and curb appeal drive the decision.
Typical ranges in Toronto (installed, ballpark)
- Steel: $1,500–$3,500+ (simple styles; great value).
- Fiberglass: $2,500–$6,000+ (broad styles; low upkeep).
- Wood (engineered): $4,000–$9,000+ (premium look; higher care).
Adders: Custom sizes, sidelites/transoms, decorative glass, dark finishes, multipoint locks, and heavy trim can lift cost fast.
Where the “return” comes from
- Comfort: Less draft = warmer foyer. Big quality-of-life gain.
- Energy: Savings are modest door-only, but air-sealing helps.
- Resale: Fresh façade lifts perceived value and speed to sell.
- Maintenance: Fiberglass/steel reduce finishing costs over time.
Simple data point: Upgrading a leaky frame + sweep can prevent entry drafts far more than changing slab material alone. Installation quality = a major share of the “ROI.”
Best-Fit Recommendations
Let’s select fast and smart. Tell me your priority. I’ll match the door.
Most exposed main entry (wind, snow):
Go fiberglass.
Spec: 1 ¾” (2 ¼” if tall/wide), composite jamb, high-density PU core, thermally broken sill, multipoint lock, Low-E IGU with warm-edge spacers.
Why: Stable in deep cold. Typical slab ~R-5–R-6 vs wood ~R-2–R-3. Fewer drafts.
Heritage look, street presence matters:
Go engineered (stave-core) wood.
Spec: Factory finish, solid overhang sealed on all six sides, or storm door, composite sill/jamb, multipoint.
Why: Best character. Accept scheduled upkeep (inspect yearly; topcoat 12–18 months if exposed).
Value build or rental (simple styling):
Go steel.
Spec: 24-ga galvanized skins (or 22-ga premium), composite frame, multipoint, factory paint, touch-up kit.
Why: Strong value. Watch dents. Touch up chips to avoid rust.
Side/back entries (security first):
Go steel or fiberglass.
Spec: Multipoint, 3″ screws through hinges/strike into framing, security pins, adjustable sweep.
Why: Tight seal + hardening. Low maintenance.
Large glass / modern design:
Go fiberglass with big lites or a thermally broken system.
Spec: Double or triple IGUs, warm-edge spacers, Low-E tuned for cold, composite frame.
Why: Controls edge chill and condensation. Comfort stays high.
Busy street / sound control:
Go fiberglass.
Spec: Thicker slab, continuous gaskets, laminated glass in lites (adds ~STC +3–5).
Why: Better dampening than thin-skin steel or solid wood alone.
Condensation concerns:
Go fiberglass + high-spec glass.
Spec: Warm-edge spacers, Low-E, precise air-seal. Keep indoor RH ~30–40% at −10 °C.
Why: Warmer surfaces = less moisture.
If you only change one thing:
Upgrade sill, frame, and gaskets, and insist on a pro install: shimmed, foamed, taped, sill pan.
Why: Air-sealing often delivers >50% of the comfort gain.
My suggestion (default pick):
- Main entry = fiberglass + composite frame + multipoint.
- Secondary doors = 24-ga steel.
- Heritage façade = engineered wood with an overhang or storm door.
Does a steel door feel colder to the touch than a fiberglass one?
Yes, steel has higher thermal conductivity, but fiberglass has a foam core and low-conductivity skins, which keep its surface warmer.
How often do I need to refinish a wood door to protect it from winter?
A wood door with an exposed finish should be inspected annually.
Can I get a fiberglass door that looks like real wood?
Yes. High-quality fiberglass doors are designed with realistic wood grain textures.
What is a U-factor, and why does it matter for a winter door?
The lower the U-factor, the better the material is at preventing heat from escaping your home, which is a critical factor for energy efficiency and comfort in cold climates.
